Ever wished your handmade clothes or curtains looked as polished as store-bought ones—without a visible stitch in sight? That’s where the blind hem comes in, offering a crisp, professional finish to any project. Knowing how to master this subtle hem can instantly elevate your sewing skills and boost your confidence.
In this article, you’ll discover how to sew a blind hem using a sewing machine, broken down into easy-to-follow steps, plus helpful tips for flawless results.
Related Video
How to Sew a Blind Hem on a Sewing Machine: A Complete Guide
Sewing a blind hem on a sewing machine can feel like magic. You get a clean, almost invisible finish—perfect for dress pants, skirts, curtains, and more. For those who want their sewing projects to look truly professional, mastering the blind hem stitch is a must. Let’s walk through everything you need to know to achieve that flawless look, even if you’re new to invisible hemming.
What Is a Blind Hem and Why Use It?
A blind hem is a type of hem that’s almost invisible from the outside of the fabric. Only the tiniest bits of thread show on the right side. The rest of the stitching is hidden in the hem allowance on the inside. This technique is ideal for:
- Dress pants and skirts.
- Dresses made from lightweight to medium-weight fabrics.
- Curtains and home décor.
- Any garment where a visible hem would be distracting.
The main benefits of a blind hem include:
- Professional, polished appearance.
- Less obvious stitching—ideal for formal or tailored clothing.
- Quick to sew with a machine, saving time over hand stitches.
The Essential Tools and Preparation
Before you start, gather the following:
-
Sewing machine with a blind hem stitch setting
Most modern machines include this stitch, often shown as a series of straight and zigzag stitches. -
Blind hem presser foot
This special foot guides your fabric for even, accurate stitches. It has a guide “blade” in the center. -
Matching thread
Choose thread that blends with your fabric for an invisible finish. -
Iron and ironing board
Hemming is smoother with well-pressed edges.
-
Measuring tools
A ruler or seam gauge ensures your hem is even. -
Dressmaker pins or fabric clips
Hold the hem in place securely.
Take a moment to check your sewing machine’s manual to locate the blind hem stitch and learn how to attach the blind hem foot if you haven’t used it before.
Step-by-Step: Sewing a Blind Hem with a Machine
Follow these steps for an invisible hem finish.
1. Mark and Press the Hem
- Put your garment on and decide where you want the new hem to fall.
- With the garment inside-out, mark the hem with chalk or a fabric marking tool.
- Fold the raw edge up to meet your marked line and press well with your iron.
- Fold this edge under again, tucking in the raw edge to form your hem. Press again for a crisp crease.
2. Pin the Hem
- With the garment still inside-out, pin the fold in place.
- Place pins perpendicular to the hem edge for easy removal as you sew.
- For smoother sewing, add extra pins near bulky seams.
3. Prepare the Fold for Sewing
Here’s the trickiest part—getting the fold right so you only catch a tiny bite of the fabric:
- Start with the inside of your garment facing you.
- Fold the hem back onto the right side of the fabric, leaving about 1/4″ (0.6 cm) of the hem’s raw edge sticking out past the folded fabric.
- The main body of the garment is now on the left, with the narrow hem allowance on the right.
4. Set Up Your Machine
- Select the blind hem stitch on your machine.
- Attach the blind hem presser foot. The blade in the center will help maintain a perfect distance from the folded edge.
- Place the fabric under the presser foot so the blade runs along the fold, and the straight stitches fall on the hem allowance.
5. Test on Scrap Fabric
- Always do a test run on a scrap of your garment fabric.
- Adjust the stitch width so that only the tip of the zigzag stitch catches the main fabric, not the allowance. Too wide, and your stitches will be visible; too narrow, and the hem may unravel.
6. Sew the Hem
- Start stitching, keeping the fabric folded as described.
- Sew slowly, especially around curves or seams, to ensure accurate stitches.
- Remove pins as you approach them to prevent breaking your needle.
- As you sew, the straight stitches should land on the hem allowance, and the zigzag should just catch the fold of the garment.
7. Unfold and Press
- When you finish sewing, unfold the hem so the garment’s right side faces out.
- You should see tiny, evenly spaced “bites” of thread on the outside of the garment—almost invisible if your thread is well-matched.
- Press the hem with an iron to flatten the stitches and set the seam.
Blind Hem Stitch: Tips for Success
Get the neatest results with these practical tips:
- Choose the right needle and thread: Use a fine needle (e.g., size 70/10 or 80/12) for lightweight fabrics; heavier fabrics may need a thicker needle.
- Match the thread color: A closely matched thread disappears on the right side.
- Press at every stage: Well-pressed folds make hemming easier and more precise.
- Practice the folding: The “blind” part takes time to master. Practice on scraps to get comfortable with folding, pinning, and machine setup.
- Don’t pull the fabric: Let the machine feed the fabric naturally to avoid puckered hems.
- Maintain your machine: A clean, well-oiled machine helps create even stitches and reduces thread breakage.
Common Challenges and How to Overcome Them
Puckered or Wavy Hems
- Usually caused by pulling the fabric or an overly tight tension. Adjust your thread tension and slow down.
Stitches Too Visible on the Right Side
- The stitch width may be too wide. Use your machine’s settings to make the zigzag smaller.
- Check that the fabric is folded to expose just a sliver to the zigzag.
Skipped Stitches
- Could mean the needle is dull or the wrong type. Try replacing the needle or using a sharper one.
Stitches Missing the Hem
- Double-check the hem’s alignment with the blind hem foot’s blade.
- Practice folding and positioning the fabric.
When to Use (and Not Use) a Blind Hem
Ideal For:
- Polyester, wool, cotton blends, and other medium-weight fabrics.
- Garments and home decor where you want a nearly-invisible hem.
- Unlined skirts, pants, and sleeves.
Avoid If:
- Your fabric is too sheer, as even tiny stitches will show.
- The fabric is very thick or stretchy; the blind hem may not hold, or it could look bulky.
- You need durability and strength (like on jeans or heavy workwear).
Alternative Hemming Methods
If a blind hem isn’t suitable, try these:
- Double-fold hem: A simple, durable hem for most fabrics.
- Hand-stitched blind hem: Time-consuming, but gives even more control for delicate or slippery fabrics.
- Fusible hem tape: Quick for lightweight, unlined garments or curtains.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What stitch should I use for a blind hem on my sewing machine?
Most machines have a blind hem stitch—it looks like several straight stitches followed by a single zigzag. Consult your machine’s manual to find this option, as it might be displayed as a unique icon.
Do I really need a special blind hem foot?
While it’s possible to sew a blind hem with a regular zigzag foot, a blind hem foot makes guiding the fabric much easier and ensures even, neat stitches. The center blade helps maintain the right distance from the fabric fold.
Can I use this technique on knit fabrics?
Yes, but use a stretch blind hem stitch if your machine has one. A regular blind hem stitch may pop during wear on stretchy fabrics. Always test on a scrap first and use a ballpoint or stretch needle.
Why is my blind hem showing on the right side?
This usually means the stitch width is too wide, or too much of the fabric fold is being caught by the zigzag. Adjust your settings so that only the very edge of the main fabric is caught by the widest stitch.
How do I fix a blind hem if I make a mistake?
If your stitches are too noticeable or uneven, carefully unpick them with a seam ripper. Press the hem well, reposition, and sew again. Practice makes perfect, so don’t be discouraged if your first try isn’t flawless!
Final Thoughts
Learning to sew a blind hem on your sewing machine unlocks a new level of polish in your sewing projects. With a bit of practice and attention to detail, you’ll be able to create crisp, invisible hems that look just as good (or better!) than store-bought garments. Remember to take it slow, practice your folding, and experiment with settings on scraps. Before long, the blind hem stitch will become one of your favorite sewing tricks.
Happy sewing!