Ever found the perfect pants, but they’re just a tad too long? Or maybe your favorite skirt’s hem is coming undone? Knowing how to sew a hem with a sewing machine is a simple skill that can save you time, money, and frustration.
In this article, you’ll find clear, step-by-step instructions for machine hemming, plus helpful tips to ensure a polished finish. Whether you’re a beginner or just need a refresher, we’ve got you covered.
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How to Sew a Hem with a Sewing Machine
Sewing a clean, even hem with a sewing machine is one of the most useful skills you can learn in sewing. Whether you’re shortening pants, finishing a handmade dress, or giving new life to an old curtain, knowing how to hem neatly will make your projects look polished and professional. The good news? Hemming with a sewing machine is fast, strong, and beginner-friendly once you learn a few basic steps.
Below, we’ll walk through everything you need to know, from preparing your fabric to special techniques for invisible hems and rounded edges.
Understanding the Basics: What Is a Hem?
A hem is simply the finished edge at the bottom of any garment or fabric piece. Hemming involves folding the raw edge under and securing it with stitches to prevent fraying. The result is a neat, durable edge that looks professional inside and out. There are many types of hems, but the most popular methods can all be tackled with your sewing machine.
Types of Hems You Can Sew with a Machine
Before jumping into the steps, it helps to know your options:
- Single Fold Hem: The fabric edge is folded under once and stitched. Used where a thicker double fold isn’t needed.
- Double Fold Hem: The edge is folded under twice, enclosing the raw edge for a cleaner finish. This is the most common for clothing.
- Rolled Hem: Creates a tiny, delicate hem often used on light fabrics like scarves or linings.
- Blind Hem: Special technique to hide most of the stitches from the front—great for dress pants or skirts.
- Decorative Hem: Uses a fancy machine stitch to add flair.
Each method uses the same foundational skills—you’re in the right place to start.
Step-by-Step: How to Sew a Hem with a Sewing Machine
Follow these simple steps to achieve a beautiful hem on any project.
1. Prepare the Fabric
Preparation ensures your hem will lie flat and last for many washes.
- Wash, dry, and press your fabric before hemming. This prevents shrinkage and sets the fibers.
- Trim any loose threads from the edge.
- For slippery or delicate fabrics, consider using a stabilizer or pressing spray to give structure as you work.
2. Decide on Hem Depth
Standard hem allowances range from ½ inch to 2 inches, depending on the garment and fabric thickness.
- Lightweight fabrics: ½ inch–¾ inch
- Medium-weight fabrics: 1 inch–1 ½ inches
- Heavy fabrics (like denim): Up to 2 inches
Mark the desired hemline with fabric chalk or a washable pen along the wrong (inside) side of the fabric.
3. Fold and Press the Hem
- Fold the raw edge up toward the inside of the garment to your chosen hem depth.
- Press the fold with a hot iron for a crisp edge.
- For a double fold hem, fold the raw edge in by ¼–½ inch, press, then fold up again by your remaining hem allowance and press once more.
- Clip or pin the hem in place, arranging pins perpendicular to the edge to avoid shifting while sewing.
4. Choose a Stitch and Set Up Your Machine
Set up your sewing machine for hemming:
- Select a matching thread for your fabric.
- Install a standard presser foot (or a specialty hem foot for rolled or blind hems).
- Choose a straight stitch for double and single hems. For a blind hem, select the blind hem stitch.
Test your stitches on a fabric scrap to make sure your tension and length (usually 2.5–3mm for most hems) are set correctly.
5. Sew the Hem
For Single or Double Fold Hem
- Position the garment under the presser foot, aligning the edge of the hem.
- Begin sewing, backstitching at the start for extra security.
- Stitch along the folded edge, using the seam allowance as your guide. Remove pins as you go to avoid damaging your needle.
- Backstitch at the end to lock the stitches.
- Trim any excess threads.
For a Rolled Hem
Many machines have a rolled hem foot.
- Begin with a narrow fold of the fabric and feed it into the rolled hem foot.
- The foot will curl the fabric under as you sew.
- Keep an even tension and guide the edge through for a delicate, tight hem.
For a Blind Hem
Some machines offer a dedicated blind hem foot and stitch.
- Fold and press the hem as described, but leave a small amount of the hem extending beyond the main fabric.
- Fold the hem back so the edge is just exposed.
- Stitch along the folded edge with the blind hem stitch. Most stitches will land in the hem, with occasional “bites” into the main fabric that are nearly invisible from the front.
6. Press the Finished Hem
A final press sets the stitches and helps the hem lie beautifully flat. Use steam if safe for your fabric.
Tips for a Neat Machine-Sewn Hem
- Keep It Even: Use a seam gauge or ruler for consistent hem depth as you fold. Mark guidelines with chalk if needed.
- Use Pins or Clips: Place them at right angles to the edge so you can sew over and remove them easily.
- Check Your Thread: Choose a color that blends into the fabric for the neatest look. For visible decorative hems, pick a contrasting thread.
- Go Slow: Especially around curves, moving slowly will result in a neater finish.
- Trim Bulk: If your fabric is heavy, grade (trim) the seam allowance to reduce thickness before folding.
Common Hemming Challenges and How to Fix Them
Even experienced sewists run into hiccups with hems. Here’s how to solve a few common issues:
- Wavy or Stretched Hems: Stretchy or bias-cut fabrics can ripple. Try using a walking foot, stay tape, or sewing with tissue paper under the fabric for support.
- Skipped Stitches: Make sure you use a sharp needle appropriate for your fabric weight, and check that your machine is threaded correctly.
- Puckering: This usually means the tension is too tight. Adjust your stitch tension and stitch length, and be gentle while guiding fabric.
When to Hand Sew vs. Machine Sew a Hem
While machine sewing is quicker and strong for most projects, you may prefer hand sewing for:
- Delicate or slippery fabrics where machine stitches would show.
- Fine garments where an invisible hem is needed.
- Curved edges needing maximum control.
Most everyday hems, though, are perfect for your machine.
Hemming Special Fabrics
Different fabrics may need a few tweaks:
- Knits: Use a stretch needle and a zigzag or stretch stitch so the hem can move with the fabric.
- Sheer Fabrics: Roll the hem very narrowly, or use a specialty presser foot.
- Heavy Fabrics: Use a heavy-duty needle and strong thread; increase stitch length slightly to handle the bulk.
Hemming Curved Edges
Hemming curves (like on a skirt or circle dress) can be trickier.
- Stitch a line of basting around the edge before you hem as a guide.
- Make small snips into the seam allowance to ease the fabric as you fold and press—this helps avoid puckers.
Benefits of Using a Sewing Machine to Hem
- Speed: Hemming by machine is fast, even on long garments.
- Durability: Machine stitches are strong and less likely to unravel.
- Consistency: Your hem will be the same, all the way around.
- Professional Finish: You can replicate store-bought finishes easily.
Quick Guide: Hemming Pants, Skirts, Curtains, and More
No matter what you’re hemming, you’ll follow the same basic steps above. Here are some quick application notes:
- Pants: Try the blind hem technique for a subtle finish. Always check the length with shoes before hemming.
- Skirts & Dresses: Light fabrics look best with narrow hems. Circle and flared designs may need easing along the curve.
- Curtains: Use a wide double fold hem for weight and a neat hang. For sheer curtains, use a rolled or narrow hem.
Practical Hemming Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
- Test on scrap fabric before you start.
- Change your needle regularly.
- Use good-quality thread for strength and appearance.
- Always press (iron) your hem—before, during, and after.
Don’t:
- Rush—uneven hems are harder to fix than to prevent.
- Hem without trying on (for clothing)—double-check your desired length.
- Forget to finish or tuck in raw edges, especially on ravel-prone fabrics.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. What’s the easiest hem for beginners to try first?
The double fold hem is the most beginner-friendly. Simply fold the raw edge under twice, press, and sew along the fold. It hides raw edges and looks neat on most fabrics.
2. Do I need a special sewing foot to sew a hem?
No, the standard presser foot is perfect for most straight hems. However, a blind hem foot or rolled hem foot can help create specialized finishes and are worth trying as you gain experience.
3. Why is my hem puckering after sewing?
Puckering usually results from tight thread tension or too short a stitch length. Make sure your presser foot isn’t pulling too hard on the fabric, and always use the right needle and thread for your material.
4. How do I hem stretchy fabrics on the machine?
Use a stretch or ballpoint needle and select a zigzag or stretch stitch. Avoid pulling the fabric as you sew—let the feed dogs guide it smoothly. This allows the finished hem to stretch without breaking the stitches.
5. Can I fix a machine-sewn hem if it’s uneven?
Yes! Carefully use a seam ripper to remove the stitches, press the hem flat, and re-measure your fold before sewing again. Taking time to even things out will help your finished garment look fantastic.
Sewing a hem with a sewing machine opens up endless possibilities for garment repair, alteration, and creative projects. With these steps, tips, and practical advice, you’ll be able to add polished, durable hems to everything you make. Happy sewing!